St. Estephe
St Estèphe is the northernmost of the most important communes of the Médoc and borders Pauillac on its southernmost border, with only a gully and stream separates it from Ch. Lafite. To the north lies the Bas-Médoc.
St Estèphe is defined by the depth of its gravel, which is ubiquitous but of varying depths and occasionally very shallow, when clay predominates. This keeps the soil cooler and wetter than its counterparts so that the wines can appear fresh in lighter vintages, but superbly successful in hot, dry years.
The best châteaux in the south of the commune have the deepest soil and the thickest gravel. Cos d'Estournel has an exceptional terroir with its vineyards being located on a south-facing ridge of gravel with excellent drainage.
St Estèphe is the least gravelly of main Médoc communes and in the north of the commune the vineyards are heavier and more clay-based leading to a rustic style of wine being produced. The wines can appear austere in youth with a discernable ferric note at some châteaux, but the best typically display good depth of colour, pronounced acidity and tannins in youth and are exceptionally long-lived. At their best, they are the equal of almost any Bordeaux.
The 2022 vintage from St Estèphe offers a diverse range of wine styles. Some have a brooding and intense character, with deep colour and massive tannins, while others are more moderate and crowd-pleasing. Proper management of tannins is crucial, primarily because the vintage conditions can concentrate the wine's character, resulting in a more vigorous style. The average yield was 31hl/ha, but hail damage caused a much lower yield in some areas.
St Estèphe seems to have suffered the most among the Left Bank communes due to the extreme conditions of the vintage. The severe hailstorm on June 20th mainly affected the commune's more northerly vineyards, causing some lesser-known estates to lose up to 75% of their crops. The heat was higher, and the drought was longer, which could have affected the wine's style. Nonetheless, St Estèphe has a reputation for delivering in hot and dry years, thanks to its clay subsoils.
In terms of highlights, Montrose stands out as a magnificent wine with a soaring, glossy, and ferric edifice. Calon Ségur is also monumental, with a balanced salinity despite its 15% alcohol content. Cos d'Estournel is attractive due to its adjusted methods of extracting mainly at the start of fermentation. Lafon-Rochet offers a fresh personality under new ownership, while Meyney is heady and savoury, with a good proportion of Petit Verdot. Phélan Ségur is solid and structured, Ormes de Pez has tamed tannins, and Château de Pez has a lovely savoury lick and structure.
Overall, the 2022 vintage from St Estèphe provides a diverse range of wine styles, with something for every palate, even if some estates were affected by hail damage.